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Villanueva en Hanssens op Cerro Torre via de Ragni route

Villanueva en Hanssens op Cerro Torre via de Ragni route

30 december 2012

Sean Villanueva en Stéphane Hanssens maakten gebruik van de perfecte ijscondities in Patagonië om de legendarische Cerro Torre te beklimmen. Ook wel onmogelijke berg genaamd, is Cerro Torre bekend om zijn psychedelische en unieke sneeuwvlaktes. Het duo bereikte de top op 25 december.
De klimmers deden dit langs de zuidflank van de berg via de Ragni route (600m 90 M4). Die route werd geopend in 1974 door een Italiaans kwartet bestaande uit Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari et Pino Negri. Ook beschouwd door kenners zoals Rolando Gariboti en Collin Haley als de mooiste ijsbeklimming ter wereld.
Sean vertelt: "Het ging heel goed, ondanks onze geringe ervaring met ijsklimmen. We hadden nog maar een week op ijs geklommen in ons hele leven! Het is ook de eerste keer dat we de top van een berg bereikten zonder gebruik te maken van onze klimschoenen."
Sean benadrukt dat de ijscondities uitzonderlijk waren. Elk jaar proberen meerdere klimmers de top de bereiken, maar nog maar 22 van hen geraakten effectief boven zonder gebruik te maken van de ladder van de route Compressor (die niet meer bestaat).

Naast deze ijsbeklimming, zijn Sean en Stephane ook aan het boulderen in de vallei. Na Wasabi twee weken geleden, gaat Stephane op zijn zelfde elan door. Hij topte twee nieuwe 8A's.




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2/01/2013
28 climbers up the Ragni Route.

According to various estimates as many as 28 people climbed the Ragni route on Cerro Torre over Christmas, five people on the 24th, the reminder on the 25th. First on the summit were Germans Markus Brand and Thomas Steber followed by Argentine guide Max Odell, with Agustin Raselli and a client (second guided ascent of the peak and route - German guide Michi Wärthl did the first guided ascent earlier this year). The following morning Fred Degoulet and Ben Guigonnet (France) climbed the last pitch and summited at 7:30AM, followed later in the day by Dante Alegria, Julian Casanova and Pablo Pontoriero (Argentina); Colin Haley (US) and Jon Walsh (Canada) -this was Colin's second ascent of the route in less than a month-; Max Fischer and Cory Hall (Canada) with Luca Vallata (Italy); Alberto (last name?) and Bruno (last name?) (Italy); Sean Villanueva and Stephane Hanssens (Belgium); Sigbjorn Veslegard and Ture Bjornstad (Norway) with Anna Karin Berggren (Sweden) - second female ascent of the route; Ezequiel Manoni and Fideo Molina (Argentina); Victor (last name?) and Pedro Fina (Argentina); two Basque climbers (names?). Doug Shepherd and Jared (last name?) (USA) the 26/12/2012.

Around 80 people had climbed the route since its first ascent, now the number has jumped to well over a hundred.

The climb this season involves mostly well protected ice climbing, with little to no rime climbing. Because of the diminishing rime many old fixed ropes, ladders and other "wall garbage" is surfacing. In the last years we had thought that the route was reasonably clean, but that appears not to be the case. The fixed ropes that go from the bottom to the top were abandoned during the filming of Werner Herzog's "Scream of Stone" in the early 1990s. The cable ladders date back to the early 1970s. The rope fixed in the traverse at the start of the last pitch appears to have been left earlier in the season. It is unclear why.

After a recent ascent of the Ragni route Austrian climber Max Berger wrote "Having climbed Cerro Torre in 1994 via the Maestri Via Ferrata I am more than happy that I reached the summit again by fair means climbing one of the most outstanding routes of the massif! The Ragni is the most beautiful line I ever climbed and should be on the wish list of each climber."

bron: www.pataclimb.com

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