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Magnus Midtbø

Magnus Midtbø

Een vaste waarde uit het Hoge Noorden

15 oktober 2011, 

Magnus Midtbø was een van de meestbelovende jeugdklimmers van de laatste jaren. In 2000, op 11-jarige leeftijd, schrijft zijn moeder hem in voor een klimcursus. Eén jaar later won hij al de Noorse jeugdkampioenschappen en nog een jaar later topte hij reeds zijn eerste 8a. Van 2004 tot 2007 won hij niet minder dan 12 gouden medailles op internationale jeugdwedstrijden, één wereldtitel inclusief. Na wat meer ervaring opgedaan te hebben in het senior circuit de laatste jaren lijkt dit jaar alles op zijn plaats te vallen. Voorlopig nam hij slechts deel aan twee wedstrijden, de Wereldbeker in Chamonix en het Wereldkampioenschap in Arco, maar een bronzen medaille op de eerste en een vierde plaats op de tweede maken duidelijk dat het goed zit met de form. We hadden de kans hem te spreken na de kwalificaties in Puurs.

Belclimb: Als we je resultaten van dit jaar bekijken en wetende dat Klimax je favoriete wedstrijdzaal is mogen we dan veronderstellen dat je hoge verwachtingen hebt?

Magnus: Ik heb zeker wel hoge verwachtingen. Ik hoop altijd om in de finales te geraken en eenmaal in de finales kan zo goed als alles gebeuren. Iedereen speelt dan mee. Ik hou zeker van de stijl van de routes hier. Vandaag (kwalificaties op vrijdag 30 september nvdr.) gaf ik in de eerste route misschien net iets te veel van mezelf en dus was ik wat te moe voor de tweede route. Strategisch gezien was dat niet de beste zet maar nu heb ik tijd om goed te eten en te rusten voor morgen.

We zagen dat je dit jaar enkel deelneemt aan de Wereldbekers die plaatsvinden in Europa. Is het te moeilijk om aan alle wedstrijden op de kalender deel te nemen? (10 Wereldbekers Lead van juli tot november)

Eerlijk gezegd lig ik niet wakker van eindklassementen. Ik denk dat de meeste mensen zich niet bezighouden met het opzoeken van rankings. Ik verkies het dan ook om enkel naar die wedstrijden te gaan waar ik me het beste amuseer. Ook denk ik dat wedstrijden als Chamonix en Puurs, waar alle goede klimmers van de partij zijn, de meer prestigieuze wedstrijden zijn. Voor mij zijn deze dan ook belangrijker. Ik ben ervan overtuigd dat er minder wedstrijden op de kalender moeten, enkel de belangrijkere.

De afgelopen zomer was er een deep water soloing wedstrijd vlakbij Oslo waar je kon winnen. Denk je dat dit een nieuw wedstrijdformat kan zijn voor in de toekomst?

Ja zeker. Ik denk dat het plezant is om te zien. Mensen genieten ervan om de klimmers in het water te zien vallen. Je hebt ook een minimum aan materiaal nodig en dat is goed. Geen gordel, geen touw, geen setjes om in te pikken. Het enige is dat het misschien wat moeilijker te organiseren valt. Je moet een baai vinden waar de muur opgesteld kan worden, het publiek een goed uitzicht heeft en je moet het water in beweging krijgen. Als er geen golven of stroming is dan is het water veel te hard om in te vallen. Je moet bubbly water hebben zoals in duikwedstrijden. Je gaat wel dieper onder water maar het valt veel zachter.

Is het een meer pure vorm van klimmen, vermits je niet moet inpikken en dergelijke?

Ik denk van wel. Wel zullen sommige mensen er schrik van hebben. Zeker als je een dak door moet of bij een dyno is er de kans om je echt zeer pijn te doen. Ook op deze wedstrijd waren er enkele bijna-ongevallen maar voor mij is het toch net iets meer fun. Daarbij, klimmen wordt verondersteld een sport te zijn…

Er wordt op dit moment zeer veel moeite gedaan om klimmen een Olympische status te bezorgen. In 2013 valt hierover een beslissing en in tussentijd wordt het speedklimmen gebruikt als belangrijkste wapen. Geloof jij in het wijzigen van het wedstrijdformat om de sport te promoten of moet het de sport zoals deze is zijn die Olympisch wordt?

Persoonlijk denk ik dat het niet de moeite is Olympisch te worden als je daarvoor de sport moet veranderen. Voor mij is het ook niet zo belangrijk, de Olympische spelen zijn een wedstrijd als een ander. Klimmen was altijd een soort van underground sport. De mensen kennen het niet echt. Het is natuurlijk niet plezant als men me weer maar eens vraagt hoe snel ik dan wel kan klimmen maar langs de andere kant is het ook gewoon ons ding. Onze community en niemand anders weet waar het eigenlijk allemaal om draait. Voor mij is dat best wel ok.

Het is een underground thing maar het is ook een rock thing. Verleden jaar was je een van de eerste klimmers om een 9b achter je naam te schrijven. Hoe gaat het dit jaar?

Dit jaar heb ik me meer op wedstrijden geconcentreerd. Enkele Noorse wedstrijden stonden op mijn programma en de Wereldbekerwedstrijden en het Wereldkampioenschap waren doelen. Ik wou hiervoor dan ook zeer goed trainen en dat is goed geweest. Ook wou ik dit jaar in Flatanger gaan equiperen en ik heb daar veel tijd in gestoken.

We hoorden reeds veel van dit Flatanger. Hoe vond je de wand en wat zijn de plannen?

Ik hoorde er al enige tijd terug van. Een drietal jaar geleden vertelde iemand me over de grot omdat er enkele routes waren geequipeerd aan de linkerzijde waar het niet zo overhangend is. Ze vertelden me van het centrale deel en het potentieel. Het is wel een tiental uren rijden van waar ik woon en het is dan ook een hele onderneming om er te geraken. Ook gebeurt het al eens dat zo'n groot dak volledig greeploos is en ik wil niet tailleren. Ook dat was een reden waarom het even duurde eer ik er naartoe trok. Nu ik er ben geweest ben ik echt enorm verbaasd over het potentieel. Ik heb een route in gedachten van zo'n 180m maar als je van helemaal links onder vertrekt en de natuurlijke barsten volgt dan kan je gaan tot routes van 200 of zelfs 250m. Je moet het zien om het te geloven en als je het ziet dan moet je er klimmen om het volledig te kunnen begrijpen
 


 

In de maand mei volgend jaar plannen we er een groots niet al te officieel evenement. Gewoon voor de fun. Ik denk dat het echt tof gaat worden want al vele mensen vroegen me naar de sport en het evenement. Het moet iets worden als de Roctrip maar ik hoop dan wel met meer routes. Niet slechts één ultieme mannen- en vrouwenroute.

Hoe belangrijk is klimmen als sport in Noorwegen?

Het is belangrijk maar niet zoals een sport als voetbal of skieën. Er zijn vele klimmers onder de Noren, ongeveer 1 op de 100 klimt. Het is een zeer populaire en misschien de felst groeiende sport in het land. We krijgen een beetje aandacht op de televisie met bijvoorbeeld een grote reportage over mijn wedstrijdseizoen dit najaar op het programma. Ook hebben we enkele jeugdige klimmers die op internationaal vlak zeer goed bezig zijn, bijvoorbeeld Tina (Johnsen Hafsaas).

We kennen je van de trainingsvideo's op het net en we hoorden dat je nooit een trainer of coach had. Waar haalde je alle kennis voor je trainingen?

In Noorwegen waren we vroeger niet al te sterk wat klimmen betrof en dus heb ik veel moeten rondreizen. Zo kon ik trainen met andere klimmers als David Lama. Ik verbleef lange tijd in Innsbruck en bracht veel tijd door met nog andere klimmers. Ik leerde veel van iedereen en maakte daar mijn eigen combinatie van. Een eigen en uniek trainingsrecept dat werkt voor mij.
 


 

Welke klimmer vind jij dat zeker een interview verdient en om welke reden?

Ik denk dat Jorg (Verhoeven) echt een interview verdient. Hij is een soort underdog. Hij was de laatste tijd niet zo veel in de media maar hij geeft veel terug aan de sport zonder er iets voor in ruil te verwachten. Dat is echt mooi. Hij wil geen aandacht en doet het allemaal gewoon omdat hij het graag doet.

Ok, dank voor dit interview en veel succes!

Tijl

De site van Magnus Midtbø


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